This world, however, has left at Nimes a far more considerable memento
than a few old stones covered with water-moss.
The Roman arena is the rival of those of Verona and of Arles; at a
respectful distance it emulates the Colosseum. It is a small Colosseum, if
I may be allowed the expression, and is in a much better preservation than
the great circus at Rome. This is especially true of the external walls,
with their arches, pillars, cornices. I must add that one should not speak
of preservation, in regard to the arena at Nimes, without speaking also of
repair. After the great ruin ceased to be despoiled, it began to be
protected, and most of its wounds have been drest with new material. These
matters concern the archeologist; and I felt here, as I felt afterward at
Arles, that one of the profane, in the presence of such a monument, can
only admire and hold his tongue. The great impression, on the whole, is an
impression of wonder that so much should have survived. What remains at
Nimes, after all dilapidation is estimated, is astounding.
I spent an hour in the Arenes on that same sweet Sunday morning, as I came
back from the Roman baths, and saw that the corridors, the vaults, the
staircases, the external casing, are still virtually there.
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