We had received a telegram
saying the steamer would pass outside Goa at midnight, and would pick us
up for the return journey to Bombay. These steamers are due once in a
fortnight, and this one was long past her time. Everybody was sorry that
we were leaving, and we had great hospitality. In the morning we were
entertained at breakfast by a gentleman who owned the largest and the
best house in Goa. We had every variety of native food and fruit in
abundance, good cool air and water--the latter produced by hanging the
earthen water-bottles in the window, clothed with wet hay or grass. We
were, in all, ten at table, native and European. Then the heat came on,
and we had to retire. In the evening we were taken for an excursion
in a boat to Cazalem. We coasted along for an hour, and sang glees
under a fine moon, accompanied by a heavy swell. We were carried ashore
on the shoulders of the natives, and were heralded first by the watch-
dogs and then by the European inmates, who did not expect us. They
were assembled in the verandah playing cards by the light of torches.
We passed a merry evening and returned to Goa by carriage. The seat
gave way, and we had to sit on the edges.
On our return the night was dark, but we at once started in a large open
boat, with four men to row and one to steer, to reach our steamer bound
for Bombay, which, as I have already explained, did not pass nearer Goa
than eight miles.
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