We rode four miles along the road, and then crossed a
river valley of the mountains. Here we descended, and had to climb a
goatlike path until we came to what looked like a gash or ridge in the
mountain-side, with a belt of trees. When we got to the top, we sat
on the stones, facing one of the most wonderful Buddhist temples in
India. It was shaped just like our cathedrals, with a horseshoe roof of
teak-wood, which has defied the ravages of time. The Brahmins keep this
temple. On either side of the entrances are splendid carved lions,
larger than life. A little temple outside is consecrated by the Brahmins
to Devi. We were not allowed to go nearer to this goddess than past a
triangular ornament covered with big bells; but they lit it for us and
let us peep in, and it disclosed a woman's face and figure so horribly
ugly as to give one a nightmare--a large, round, red face, with
squinting eyes, open mouth, hideous teeth, and a gash on her cheek
and forehead. She is the Goddess of Destruction, and is purposely
made frightful.
It was very hot returning. My poor horse suddenly faltered, giving a
wrench to my back, and bringing my heart into my mouth when it almost sat
down behind. We passed troops of Brinjari, whose procession lasted for
about two miles. This is a very strong, wild race, which only marries
among its own tribe. The women were very picturesquely dressed, and
glared at me defiantly when I laughed and spoke to them.
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