It looks as if it were an ancient model carved in
old ivory, so white and fanciful are the houses, with here and there a
minaret. It was doubly interesting to me, because Richard came here by
land from his famous pilgrimage to Mecca. Mecca lies in a valley between
two distant ranges of mountains. My impression of Jeddah will always be
that of an ivory town embedded in golden sand.
We anchored at Jeddah for eight days, which time we spent at the British
Consulate on a visit. The Consulate was the best house in all Jeddah,
close to the sea, with a staircase so steep that it was like ascending
the Pyramids. I called it the Eagle's Nest, because of the good air and
view. It was a sort of bachelors' establishment; for in addition to the
Consul and Vice-Consul and others, there were five bachelors who resided
in the building, whom I used to call the "Wreckers," because they were
always looking out for ships with a telescope. They kept a pack of bull-
terriers, donkeys, ponies, gazelles, rabbits, pigeons; in fact a regular
menagerie. They combined Eastern and European comfort, and had the usual
establishment of dragomans, kawwasses, and servants of all sizes, shapes,
and colour. I was the only lady in the house, but we were nevertheless a
very jolly party.
Our first excursion was to Eve's Tomb, as it is called, a large curious
building in a spacious enclosure. Two or three holy people are buried
here, and the place commands a lovely view of the distant mountains,
beyond which lies Mecca.
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