The whole face is hidden except one eye. I remember
once asking them if it took a long time to decide which was the prettier
eye, at which small joke they were much amused.
We remained for the night with the Shaykh, and had breakfast with him in
the morning, and then went on to Mukhtara, which is the centre of the
Lebanon Druzes. It was a most interesting ride; and whilst we were still
in the barren plain a band of horsemen came out to meet us in rich Druze
dress, and escorted us through a deep defile, and then up a rocky ascent
to a Syrian palace, the house of the Sitt Jumblatt, which is situated in
olive groves on the heights. Arrived at the house, we were cordially
received by the Sitt Jumblatt--a woman who was the head of the princely
family of the Lebanon Druzes--with all the gracious hospitality of the
East, and with all the well-bred ease of a European _grande dame_. She
took us into the reception-room, when water and scented soap were brought
in carved brass ewers and basins, incense was waved before us, and we
were sprinkled with rose-water, whilst an embroidered gold canopy was
held over our heads to concentrate the perfume. Coffee, sweets, and
sherbet were served, and then I was shown to a very luxurious room.
The following morning we spent in visiting the village schools and
stables, and in listening to the Sitt's grievances, on which she waxed
eloquent. At night we had a great dinner, and after dinner there were
dancing and war-songs between the Druzes of the Lebanon and the Druzes
of the Hauran.
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