After that I was wiser,
and I threw the reins on Salim's neck, for his eyes were better than
mine. This continued for three hours, and at last we reached Jayrud,
where we had arranged to halt for the night.
Jayrud is a large clean village in the middle of the salt and sandy
plain. We stopped for the night with Da'as Agha, who was a border
chieftain, and a somewhat wild and dangerous character, though Richard
knew how to tame him. His house was large and roomy, with spacious walls
and high-raftered ceilings. While we were at supper crowds of villagers
collected to see us, and the courtyard and the house were filled with and
surrounded by all sorts of guests from different Bedawin tribes. Camels
were lying about, baggage was piled here and there, and horses were
picketed in all directions; it was a thoroughly oriental picture.
An unpleasant incident happened. I had engaged a confidential man as a
head servant and interpreter. He was an Arab, but he spoke French. He
was an exceedingly clever, skilful man, and Richard told him off to wait
on me during the journey, and to ride after me when needful. When we got
to Jayrud, as soon as I dismounted, I took Richard's horse and my own and
walked them up and down to cool. As soon as my man and another came up I
gave them the reins, saying, "After our hard ride in the sand-storm take
as much care of the horses as though they were children." He answered,
"Be rested, Sitti"; but an unpleasant smile came across his face, which
might have warned me.
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