I knew I had to ride erect half a
day at a stretch, which meant about fifteen or twenty miles.
We set forth with great pomp and ceremony; for the Mushir, or Commander-
in-chief, and a large cavalcade saw us out of the city, and exchanged
affectionate farewells outside the gates, evidently not expecting to see
us again. This being the first day, we made only a three hours' march;
it cleared us of Damascus and its environs, and we camped early on the
edge of the desert. I cannot convey to you the charm of a Syrian camp.
I shall never forget my first night in the desert. The horses were all
picketed about; the men were lying here and there in the silvery
moonlight, which lit up our tripod and kettle; and the jackals howled
and capered as they sniffed the savoury bones. People talk of danger
when surrounded by jackals, but I have always found them most cowardly;
they would run away if a pocket-handkerchief were shaken at them. It
was the prettiest thing to see them gambolling about in the moonlight;
but after we had turned in a strange effect was produced when a jackal,
smelling the cookery, ran up round the tent, for the shadow on the white
canvas looked as large as a figure exaggerated in a magic lantern.
During my first night under canvas I was awakened by hearing a pack
coming--a wild, unearthly sound. I thought it was a raid of the Bedawin
rushing down upon us, and that this was the war-cry; but the weird yell
swept down upon us, passed, and died away in the distance.
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