The only member or our
English _noblesse_ the people had hitherto known in Damascus was Lady
Ellenborough, of whom more anon.
As soon as we were settled down I had to begin my receptions. I fixed my
reception day on Wednesday; and it was no trifle, for the visitors came
all day long. One native lady told me indignantly that she had been to
see me three times on my reception day, and had been refused. I said,
"When did you come? and how could it happen that I had never heard of
it?" She answered almost angrily, "I came at daylight, and again at
sunrise, and again at eight o'clock." I said it was rather early; and
though I was an early riser, it was just possible that I had not made
a suitable toilet to receive her. On my reception day the dragomans
interpreted for me. The kawwasses, in full dress of scarlet and gold,
kept guard by turns, and the servants were engaged incessantly in
bringing up relays of narghilehs, chibouques, cigarettes, sweet-meats,
sherbet, Turkish coffee and tea. My visitors sat on the divans, cross-
legged or not, according to their nation, and smoked and chatted. If
there were Moslem women, I had two separate reception-rooms, and went
from one to the other, as the women will not unveil before strange men.
It was a most tiring day; for not only did people come all through the
day, but I was obliged to concentrate all my thought not to make a
mistake in etiquette. There were many grades and ranks to be considered,
and the etiquette in receiving each guest was different according to the
rank.
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