In the East, however, the Consular service was, at the time I write, an
honoured profession, and the _envoyes_ of the Great Powers were expected
to keep up a little state, especially the English and the French. They
had a certain number of Consular dragomans, or gentleman secretaries, in
distinction to the travelling dragoman, who bears the same relation as a
courier in Europe. They also had a certain number of kawwasses, who look
like cavalry soldiers. The Consulate at Damascus was then quite like a
diplomatic post, and I felt like a Minister's wife, and was treated
accordingly. For instance, every time I went outside my door I was
attended by four kawwasses, with swords and uniforms much ornamented,
also a dragoman interpreter. The duty of these four attendants was to
clear the way before and behind me, and I assure you it was far more
pain than pleasure to me to see mules, horses, donkeys, camels, little
children, and poor old men thrust out of the way, as if I were sacred and
they were all dirt. How they must have cursed me! I told my kawwasses
that I did not wish them to show themselves officious by doing more than
was absolutely necessary for the dignity of the British Consulate and the
custom of the country. But their escort certainly was necessary to a
great extent. When the common people saw a kawwass, they knew one was of
importance, and made way for one; otherwise a woman could not walk the
streets of Damascus without being molested: even the famished herds of
dogs seemed to know the difference between kawwass and no kawwass.
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